Writing on the Wall: Aspen Welcomes Wayan: A Fusion of French Elegance and Indonesian Flavor
Cedric and Ochi Vongerichten, the couple behind two New York City restaurants Wayan and Ma•dé, alongside restaurateurs Ezra J. William and Raphael Derly, have officially opened their French-Indonesian concept, Wayan Aspen, at 614 E. Cooper Ave.
Following the success of the Wayan pop-up at The Little Nell for the past two years, Wayan Aspen marks Vongerichten’s first brick-and-mortar in town, a dream that he said he and his wife have shared for about a decade. The husband-and-wife duo brings their respective French training and Indonesian background to the second location of their eatery.
“We love Aspen,” Vongerichten explained. “There are a few places around the world and in the US that my wife and I love to visit, and Aspen is one of them. Over the last 10 years, we’ve been looking for the right location and the right partner. Something special happened with Raphael when we met and the whole thing came together.”
Longtime local restaurateur Derly partnered with the Vongerichten’s to buy out the lease of former Local Coffee, Alpina, and Here House and took over the space on Monday, Feb. 26.
“I have been in love with the location since it was a boutique years ago and was a fan and frequent customer of Local Coffee, so I’ve always had a big crush on the space,” Derly said.
He has a long history in the restaurant industry that spans across his country of native France, Los Angeles, and Aspen. Born in Marseille and raised in Aix en Provence, he grew up visiting his family’s chalet in the Swiss ski town of Villar-sur-Ollon where he fell in love with skiing and began competing as a ski racer, which had him traveling all around the Alps.
He found his way to Aspen in 2006 after a 15-year stint in Los Angeles running Pastis, a Provencal-type bistro, and then opening tapas lounge L’Absynthe. In 2012, he opened the Alpine cuisine-based restaurant Creperie du Village, which is now French Alpine Bistro — now owned and operated by his ex-wife Karin Derly.
Derly got to know Vongerichten, the son of internationally-renowned chef and restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten, after visiting his Indonesian concept restaurants in New York City, and eventually, they became friends. Vongerichten — who has frequented Aspen many times with his family — expressed an interest in finding a space in Aspen to Derly.
Vongerichten and his wife Ochi met at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA). She was born and raised in Indonesia where her mother owned a catering business, one of only two in Jakarta. In 2003, she moved to New York to attend CIA.
The couple married in 2008 and have continued to build their family and business. In 2017, Ochi and Cedric launched CVRG and soon after opened Vong Kitchen and Le Burger in her home city of Jakarta. In 2019, the duo introduced their modern French-Indonesian restaurant to New York City, Wayan, meaning “firstborn” in Balinese. Wayan has received critical praise and was named one of Esquire’s Best New Restaurants in America 2019. In the spring of 2023, they opened Ma.Dé next door, drawing inspiration from the sandy beaches of Bali.
Originally born in Bangkok, Thailand, Vongerichten moved to New York at a young age, where he spent his early years learning from his father, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, in kitchens around New York City and the world.
He said even though he had been exposed to different cuisines growing up, he knew very little about Indonesian cuisine before meeting his wife.
“By going to Indonesia and visiting her family, the more I got exposed to all the different cuisines going to different parts of Indonesia, and my vision just opened up,” he said. “The more you travel, the more you see, the more you get exposed to spices and ingredients.”
Thus Wayan — their approachable Indonesian restaurant with modern French flair — was born. It is currently one of the only Indonesian restaurants in the Michelin Guide in America. Recently recognized by The Best Chef Awards 2024, Vongerichten brings a fusion of French techniques to their dishes while Ochi’s Jakarta roots infuse Indonesian flavors into the menu resulting in a diverse culinary experience that celebrates the vibrant tapestry of Indonesian cuisine.
At Wayan Aspen, guests can expect signature shareable dishes like Lobster Noodles with black pepper butter and Thai basil, Peekytoe Crab Fried Rice with kerupuk and cilantro, the crowd-favorite Corn Fritters, and desserts like Pandan Passion Fruit Custard. Regional specialties will include Colorado Lamb Satay, local Dry Aged Ribeye served with Indonesian sauces, and Butterflied Trout topped with sambal tomato sauce, plus seasonal highlights like Crescent Duck with calamansi gulai, stone fruit, and lotus chips.
A special Aprés Ski menu will follow the initial opening period from 3-5 p.m. Guests can also experience handcrafted cocktails like the Calamansi Fizz with gin, calamansi, aquafaba, and rosemary; the Devils Avocado with mezcal, avocado, cucumber and honey; and the Wedang with whiskey, benedictine, honey, lemongrass (served hot).
Chef de Cuisine Matthew Byk has been enlisted to bring the Wayan Aspen menu to life. With five years of experience leading CVRG’s Vong Kitchen in Indonesia, Byk brings cultural expertise and a long-standing connection to the team.
Design was led by Derly and features a blend of Wayan NYC’s wood, stone, and greenery with the cozy feel of an Aspen chalet. The space boasts 68 seats, an open kitchen, 12-seat bar, a wood fireplace, and Indonesian and Balinese artwork.
He said he had an idea from the start of what he envisioned the restaurant to look and feel like.
“The way I approach design is corner by corner, it’s always a work in progress,” he said. “I spent pretty much every single day here in this space. I learned how to study the light at different times of the day and figured out how we’re gonna play with that.”
He describes the result as being “elegant, sexy, soft, and zen,” attributing a darker palette to creating a mysterious feel to the space.
“We could not be more excited to open Wayan Aspen. Ochi, our sons, and I have cherished our time skiing in this beautiful mountain town for years, and we’re thrilled to bring a piece of our culinary world to the community that has become like a second home to us,” Vongerichten continued. “We look forward to sharing our unique blend of French-Indonesian cuisine with both longtime friends and new faces. This new chapter in Aspen feels incredibly special, and we can’t wait to welcome everyone to Wayan for a warm and unforgettable dining experience after a day on the slopes.”
Wayan Aspen’s hours are seven days a week from 3-5 p.m. for après and 6-10 p.m. for dinner.
By: Sarah GirgisI The Aspen Times I December 20, 2024